Bows! Tweed! Skirt suits! Chanel reinvents the classic house codes in Couture

News recently broke about Virginie Viard’s departure from Chanel. In the three weeks since the announcement, fashion insiders have been buzzing about who will next take over as creative director and how that will shape the future of the fashion house. The fall 2024 couture show may or may not give a glimpse of the direction Chanel will take under new leadership, but the fact that the collection doubles down on the house’s classic codes says something about the current approach and what might come next. The collection was the work of the Fashion Creation Studio, according to the design house’s notes, and pays homage to signature design motifs from the archives reimagined by 150 artisans in the ateliers.

Chanel’s couture show took place inside Paris’ Palais Garnier, a space that set the tone for the operatic show that opened and closed with hooded looks. The bows were executed in oversized proportions in the form of hair pins used in almost every runway look, as belts tied at the waist, and as suspenders on dresses. Skirt suits were finished with puffed sleeves and ruffle trim, displayed in opulent materials and embroidered with feathers, rhinestones and cabochons. Skirt suits also adopted classic tweed, as did flared coats. The colors also seemed quintessential Chanel: with a palette of black, cream, pale pink, gold, silver, fuchsia and celadon.

While we wait for news on a new artistic director, I’ll remain interested in who will land the coveted position. Below, see looks from Chanel’s fall 2024 couture collection.