This is how they finance the adventure of the most beautiful landscapes and the best fishing

These days, Sebastián and Carla parked the 1980 model truck that they adapted to live on the road on that Paseo de la Costa de Neuquén that surprised them on the banks of the Limay River. There, like every time they stop, they sell crafts, the paintings she paints, incense burners. They start chatting with those who approach curious and want to know What is the adventure like, how is it financed, what is its story?. The question that is repeated the most: if it is very expensive, with little eyes that shine as if they were looking to cheer up sometime. They tell them, for example, that by stopping paying rent and fixed costs in Mar del Plata they spend less on the route. Also now, With what they raise, they pay for food every day and when they make a difference, the diesel to continue the adventure elsewhere.

They still don’t know where it will continue. What is certain is that they will not return to the Patagonian mountain range in the colder months. It was enough with what they lived in Bariloche: that historic snowfall in autumn, The Camio, as they call the Toyota Hilux 4×2 that Seba’s grandfather bought 43 years ago, covered by white flakes. Pure beauty of Patagonia, extreme cold, waiting several days until you can circulate again, the two faces of paradise.

“La Camio” parked in the Ewan River, Tierra del Fuego.

It may be that they face him for north of Chileit may be that they go from the mountain to sea heading to the coast of Río Negro. “When we have money we fill the tank and move forward.””says Seba. This is how things are for them, with a small great detail for him: passionate about fishing, he goes with his rod to the best places in the south. in search of impossible spikes.

Unforgettable salmon

For example, caught five large salmon in the De las Vueltas river, in El Chaltén. Like every serious fisherman, he was amazed to see them so close and was overcome with anxiety that those enormous fish would not bite. Until it happened and the video shows him as the happiest man in the world.

But there was a story behind the story if the question is how those giants got there. The answer includes the controversial and millionaire salmon industry in Chile based on fingerlings imported from Canada, cage leaks where even today they huddle in the trans-Andean south, a large school formed near the Falkland Islandsthe return to its wild state and to the coast to enter the continent by the Santa Cruz Rivergo up other rivers and cross lakes to find their place to reproduce and then die until a waterfall interrupts their journey along the De Las Vueltas River.

All salmon were returned to the De las Vueltas River in Santa Cruz.

Everything, in the middle of the wonderful settings it offers El Chaltén, the National Capital of Trekking in Santa Cruz: the trails with the colors of autumn, the snow-capped peaks, the iconic Mount Fitz Roy and its stone spiers that rise to the sky and challenge the climbers. It took them two hours to reach the point in the river where they would fish. “Destroyed road, a lot of mud from the rains, but it’s worth it. And how”, says Seba proudly: as they advance, he knows the best fishing boats, their secrets and shares them with his followers, who enjoy the videos, celebrate those catches and schedule new places to go sometime.
-And Carla fishes?
“Not yet,” Seba answers and laughs. In the background, you can hear her dialogue with craft buyers who stayed to chat. “Good vibes from Neuquén,” he says.

Baked chicken

Dinner time is approaching and they haven’t decided on the menu yet. The favorite is baked chicken with potatoes. With the jug kitchen it is like in any house. Instead, they took out the refrigerator. “We filled it with things we didn’t use, We cook what we buy, so it is less weight and simpler“, Explain. Also They eat what they catch, except in places of mandatory return, as is usually the case with trout. In the case of the De las Vueltas River, where the province of Santa Cruz allows three Chinook salmon per day per fisherman to be caught in an authorized section, they were left wanting to try its flavor. He returned them all: they had run out of cooking gas.

Dreamed trout. On the Jeinimeni River, Los Antiguos, Santa Cruz.

When another classic is asked how many kilometers the truck has, he always answers the same: 43 years. And when they insist, he clarifies: “I don’t know, it’s from the time when when it reached 99,999 and did one more the counter went back to zero.”

Last week they were left in the cold and snow on a route in Neuquén, but Jorge, a guardian angel who towed them to Junín de los Andeswhere Augusto, another crackm, changed the water pump.

Then they continued the trip to the capital, where inspections awaited the truck before continuing.

From Mar del Plata to the world

They are both from Mar del Plata, Carla turned 41 in May and Seba will do so in June. They met 10 years ago and he, as part of her mission statement, He told him that his plan was to change his lifestyle starting in 2023.

Marble Cavern, Chile.

“She worked as a teacher, she didn’t think so. She would mention the topic to him every now and then, but without pressure. She matured the idea and one day she said ‘yes, let’s go’. And here we are,” says Sebastián happily.

For this, Carla resigned from her teaching position and he stopped working as a window cleaner in shops and companies, to which he had dedicated himself for 14 years.

During all that time they saved, they bought the elements to turn the truck into their home, they planned. And they hit the road on September 12, 2023, as Sebastián had imagined. In eight months, they have traveled 12 thousand kilometers of unforgettable adventures.

I search for my destiny

They left from Mar del Plata, passed through Dolores, through Lavalle and headed towards the Atlantic coast heading south to see beautiful beaches on the way to the end of the world such as those of Camarones, Puerto Deseado and Puerto San Julián. They arrived in Ushuaia at the end of January. Then, Tolhuin, Río Grande and they crossed into Chile to visit Punta Arena and Puerto Natales.

Garibaldi Pass, Tierra del Fuego.

They returned to Argentina through the Dorotea Pass and marveled at the glaciers in El Calafate and the trails of El Chaltén.

Carla and Sebastián on the Perito Moreno glacier.

Then, along the mythical National Route 40 they went up to Los Antiguos, another jewel of the south. “It’s beautiful to get to know places, to be surprised to see something new every day,” says Seba.

Then they returned to Chile to travel another mythical road: the Carretera Austral bordering Lake Buenos Aires and went to the amazing Marble Chapels.

Back in Argentina, the most feared thing happened: “Our truck broke down in the middle of nowhere, in the Alicurá reservoir.” That was the place where Jorge rescued them. “He saved us, there was nothing nearby for 100 kilometers,” they remember.

If the landscapes cannot be believed, they both agree that the best thing about the trip is meeting wonderful people who come to ask if they need something, to leave a word of encouragement, to collaborate with the purchase of a necklace, a bracelet or a frame.

traveling teacher

How is the experience for Carla? “I was a very structured and organized undergraduate teacher, it was more difficult for me to adapt but little by little I am getting used to the fact that not everything should be like this, especially traveling like this, that plans constantly change. Sometimes we miss family and friends, but we make up for it with what we experience on the trip, the people we meet, the places,” she says. Voices are heard on the Paseo de la Costa, new customers arrive for the crafts. When saying goodbye, they say that they liked that area of ​​the city, that they found it nice, orderly. And that the rivers and reservoirs of the province gave them beautiful landscapes to which they promise to return.

Carla, during an excursion through Cerro López.

Whenever it is allowed and there is no mandatory return, Carla and Sebastián eat what they catch, but they were left wanting to try the taste of the famous and giant Chinook salmon from the De las Vueltas River in Santa Cruz.

This is how Seba, who caught five large specimens there, tells the story: “I returned the salmon, because as soon as we arrived at the fishing area we ran out of gas, so we lasted two days and had to leave, since in El Chaltén there were no bottles nor in the following three cities,” he says.

“So we traveled many kilometers until we were able to find a bottle in Gregores,” he adds.
If that didn’t happen, we would have spent more days fishing in El Chaltén and getting to know more, but it became impossible when the sun went down: we were near the Desert Lake and the cold was too much, we had just bought a carafe like those for camping, but no “It goes a long way,” he continues.

“And it didn’t make sense to take one of these salmon that is so big and not be able to cook it, so they went back to the water. Fishing for them is beautiful and brutal: although we can see them, it is not easy to catch them, since in the river, they do not feed and they are caught out of irritation,” he points out.

This is how they turned the truck into a motorhome

Bahía Creek, Coastal Road, Río Negro. Photos: @giraygira.

«We removed the original box from the truck, and on the chassis we assembled the structure, which measures 2.75 long by 1.90 wide by 1.90 high. Plus the bed that we built above the cabin. Inside we put a kitchen, a bathroom with a heater, a shower and a toilet, then we have a table, with 2 places to sit, which is where we eat,” says Sebastián.

During the recent snowfalls in Bariloche.

“The structure was assembled by a welder in Mar del Plata and then together with an engineer who is the one who ends up saying that everything is fine, and gives us the approval papers,” he adds.

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