The entry of Generation Z into the market has catapulted greater casualization of fashion. For years, going to a wedding with sneakers or going out to dinner in sweatpants is no longer seen as something strange. Projects such as Nude Project, Eme Studios or TwoJeys have been born in the heat of this new trend, in a sector in which small brands proliferate, but dominated by giants such as Nike and Adidas. Can we survive under the shadow of the great classics of the streetwear?
“The founders of these projects grew up seeing a first boom in this more casual style, and it is what they are investing in now,” explains trend analyst Francesca Tur. Many of them have in common, in fact, that they do not have creative or specialized fashion studies, but rather come from a business background. “They are not fashion companies as such, but rather entrepreneurial projects. with those who, more than fashion, seek to create a community,” adds Javier Plazas, consultant for fashion and luxury companies.
Despite this, the success of some of these start oops it’s obvious. Only the Catalan Nude Project doubled its turnover in 2023, reaching a turnover of 26 million euros, while Blue Banana reached 19 million euros, a figure that is expected to rise to 28 million euros in the current year. Others like TwoJeys and Scuffers, focused on a more specialized segment of the streetwearrecorded a turnover of seven million euros each.
Nude Project has doubled its turnover in 2023
The customer of these companies has a young profile, clearly present on social networks, and who does not find their ideal product in large distributors. “The new generations have a very different approach to fashion, They care more about authenticity and the stories behind brands; They look for clothes that are comfortable, but also stylish,” explains Álex Benlloch, co-founder and CEO of Nude Porject, to Modaes.
The strategy of these companies is, in fact, to create a community that goes beyond clothing. “Buyers of companies like Nude or Eme They are not customers of the brand as such, but of the content and affinity that these generate.“, they say from Eme Studios, the Madrid company founded by Gabriel Morón and Conra Martínez.
They are increasingly common, in fact, collaborations between projects streetwear similar, or even with large distribution companies, as in the case of TwoJeys and Zara. “It is a combination of two codes,” they say from Eme Studios, whereby both worlds complement everyday basics with “star” garments.
The big competitors of brands like Blue Banana, however, are giants like Adidas or Nike. The three Adidas stripes, whether on pants or sneakers, have become one of the great symbols of urban fashion.in the same way as the Nike logo.
“Brands like these are so established that have already become a basic, they are the big players -explains Tur-; while the opportunity for these projects is to become microcultures within the sector.”
Adidas or Nike are the bid players of this trend, with garments that are a basic for the streetwear
Benlloch, for his part, highlights the agility and flexibility of projects like yours to succeed. “The start ups They have the advantage of being more agile and able to adapt quickly to new trends; they can focus on specific niches and build loyal communities around their brands,” he explains.
Projects like Benlloch’s (like Eme Studios or TwoJeys) are not governed by the traditional autumn-winter and spring-summer seasons of large companies. Its strategy involves more the launch of drops and limited collections. “They know how to listen to their clients and they refuse to play in the traditional league, but because they know that they cannot compete there,” adds Tur.
A relevant component for the growth of these projects is also the price, according to Rubén García, co-founder and CEO of Sivasdescalzo, the Spanish distribution company of sneakers. “There is no longer so much loyalty with the brands, and we have seen how Nike and Adidas classics have fallen slightly, leaving room for other companies that offer a lower average ticket like Hoka or New Balance,” adds García.
Despite the great development of brands like Nude or Eme, competing with Nike or Adidas is complicated. “It is difficult to say if it is forever – confides Benlloch -; but It seems that casual fashion is here to stay for a long time“, continues the executive, currently at the head of a company on the crest of the wave of streetwear.
