The current segmentation of restaurants is extremely broad. The era of the monopoly of cantinas, taverns, pizzerias and traditional grills ended a long time ago. Today the offer is more precise, selective and targeted. The composition of consumers is fragmented. The permanent search for new flavors is the consequence of permanent stimuli that arise from an incessant globalized media bombardment.
One of the most shocking consequences of this phenomenon is the growth of an imaginary bulimia that needs to be satisfied. This explains, at least partially, the existence of dozens of restaurant typologies that are born to satisfy the appetites and expectations of taste explorers. One of the niche categories that has been consolidating is hidden restaurants.
Anonymous entrance doors, access codes, secret corridors, stairs that lead to surprising basements, illuminated in a soft and diffuse way. “Getting lost” before feeding adds homeopathic doses of extra excitement. Using the phone’s GPS to reach the goal feeds the explorer spirit of the diners. It is a preview that intensifies the feeling of being the protagonists of a special situation. Exclusive. The long-awaited reservation that finally comes together after days or weeks of waiting.
The story of upside down
In June 2021, Nery Aimale and Sebastián Antich opened a hidden restaurant located in a former laundry in Retiro. From that moment on, its large washing machines became sentinels that watched over the place and its diners.
A warm and elegant dining room took the place of spaces that are no longer functional to their original function. Lit candles illuminate the solid wood tables, the shelves filled with books and boxes of wine, and a small exclusive wine cellar. They hired a young (23 years old) and promising chef: Tomás de Felice. It was a big bet. They armed three types of step-by-step menus: Argentine experience, kamado menu and upside down experience menu, spread throughout the week.
De Felice achieved well-timed contemporary gourmand tours. He fed them with good Argentine raw material expressed with conviction and good technique, inspired by French reminiscences and to a lesser extent, Latinas and Asians.
What to eat in Bocabajo
Burnt watermelon aguachilenori seaweed, radish, red onion and cilantro is a blast of freshness and bold spiciness.
Beet dough tortellismoked ricotta, spiced sunflower, dill and annatto prove that there is always a prominent place for rich and creative pasta in quality cuisine.
Bocabajo’s beet dough tortelli.
The bacon accompanied by cashew cream and mushroom reduction is a very successful game of subtleties and textures. Cubes of crispy and caramelized bacon, tender and moist at the same time, that flirt with the elegance of dried fruit and the aromatic soul of mushroom.
Refreshing close with lemon, basil and ginger granita. Sommelier: Esteban Burda Sainz. Room in charge of Clara Pasini.
