The month of In-Pulso can hardly be improved: First, Alejandro García de la Fuente won the award that consolidated his position as best chef in Madrid and just yesterday, they were mentioned in the Repsol Guide as a result of a recommendation from the starred chef Ramon Freixa.
the reasons? Freixa appeals to the motto that speaks of a cuisine with heart.
The reality is much more complex. The work of In-Pulso has no precedent or equivalent in the local gastronomic panorama. An example: making typical cuisine of Madrid, it is the only restaurant in the city that has some of these dishes.
Dishes rescued by In-Pulso
This is the case of alboronía: a typical dish from the ninth century that de la Fuente himself rescued after immersing himself in second-hand cookbooks. “It is said that alboronía is the origin of ratatouille and is present in many gastronomies, but Madrid’s is different because it has meat,” says the chef to Madrid Secreto.
The scenario in which these dishes are tasted, which in addition to being culinary, has an archaeological feature, is that of dinners that are held once a month. In-Pulso organizes a dinner ( priced at €65) that is a journey through the history of Madrid through its gastronomy.
When asked about the dish he is most proud of, de la Fuente says: “The last dish is the one I am most proud of: every time I rescue a dish it is one more step on the road to recovering that traditional food, which is the philosophy of this restaurant.” And he adds: “We are not going to make tripe or a typical stew, it is not our cuisine: our cuisine is to give everything a twist”.
An experiential bet
The word experience is so worn out that it seems pointless to use it to define what happens in In-Pulse on a monthly basis. Alejandro García de la Fuente, who has worked on some dishes for more than a year, presents the dish in question and contextualizes it.
In this regard, he says, “the idea is that when the client leaves here and sees Cibeles or Puerta de Toledo, they will remember their experience at In-Pulso”. To reveal the reason for this intention would be a form of spoiler. In the end, the In-Pulse experience is a narrative exercise, and just as it would make no sense for me to tell you the ending of a movie, It makes no sense to tell you about the origin of garlic shrimp.
