June 25, 202400:06
Hear
They say that in Oaxaca you drink mezcal with coffee; They also say that if we go up the small stone streets that lead to Cerro El Fortín, a few blocks from the historic center, we quickly arrive at the particular universe of the singer-songwriter Lila Downs. “I have lived here for ten years, we came after spending a decade in New York and Mexico City. I grew up in this region and my mom has always anchored here,” she explains. The theme of land and matria They will go through the entire conversation; weaving together recipes, melodies and details that emerge from the same philosophy of life, profoundly linked to your identity.
“In my family the snake has always been very important, a symbol of fertility,” Lila confesses next to a hand-carved staircase with a snake design. In addition to being a musician, Lila studied anthropology and fine arts, passions that dialogue in every corner of your house. Although his explanation goes back to long before college: “The appreciation for all of this comes from my childhood. In Tlaxiaco, where I grew up, the walls were covered with photos, paintings, textiles and my parents’ collection of pre-Hispanic pieces.”
Lila Downs, singer and homeowner
The starting point for the home of Lila and her husband, musician and producer Paul Cohen (who passed away in 2022), was a pre-existing structure to which They renovated and expanded with the help of architect Guillermo De la Cajiga. The main objective was to create pleasant and comfortable spaces, to fill them with music and musicians.
“Paul and I worked for two years on a Broadway adaptation of ‘Like Water for Chocolate’. That project was never realized, but we enjoyed composing in a workshop format so much that We wanted to generate that in the house: eight rooms to accommodate the band”says the music. “Here we meet, we eat delicious food, we drink beautifully, we create songs… It is a wonderful experience,” she says.
“I love going to towns and markets, we go with my mom who is the one who taught me to value these things,” he confesses. Some of the wonderful baskets it has come from San Juan Guelavía, while many looms were made by “its comadres” in the Triquis region. That mother, whom he talks so much about, is Anita Sánchez, a small and very kind lady who makes mosaic murals with mud from Tlapazola and Atzompa, two towns in the valley.
Although chromatic accents are part of his style, the palette that predominates in the different spaces is inspired by an indigenous raw cotton which they call coyuchi. This term is used to describe the range of brown tones, from beige to cinnamon, and comes from the Nahuatl coyōichcatl What does it mean “Coyote-colored cotton”.
To shape the spaces, they relied on the talent of teachers and creatives in the region. Although the cuisine respected the traditional Mexican format, there is no shortage of contemporary nods. The limestone mosaics, for example, are the work of the artist Francisco Toledo which worked alongside a local factory to relaunch traditional cladding in more contemporary designs. The roofs are impressive exposed brick vaults.
Some time ago, almost accidentally, Lila discovered the universe of hospitality. While on tour around the world, the singer began sharing her house on AirBNB and the response was so positive that he wanted to continue developing projects in his payments. So he set up his restaurant and “forum” a few blocks from his house.
A few meters down the street, Lila and her family created a restaurant in which they set out to honor local ingredients and recipes. Ceramics, textiles, and Oaxacan friendliness are the pillars of Smokethat Today it is practically an extension of his house.
“Perhaps I have contributed to travelers coming too… The people who follow our music and our narrative are aware of certain things and know how to value them,” reflects Downs. It is not strange to come across her there drinking the drink that bears his name: a cocktail of sweet potato, agave honey, flowers and mezcal.
On the upper floor, the views of the hills enjoyed with live music from regional artists at 8 Temblor, named in honor of a Mixtec relic that they found near the place. “When I started it was very difficult, the spaces did not take care of you, they had a terrible sound, you felt like part of the service,” he says. His purpose was to offer musicians a space in which they could feel respected.
“This space has given me so much joy, it is a source of pride. Maybe if I wanted to not tour so much, I could dedicate myself to receiving people, making my songs and promoting culture. Being here more, in the restaurant, with the family and the children who are growing and need me… Times change, we must plan for them. be where we are happy. That’s what’s important”.
